Recommended Sub-Floor
Concrete slabs, ceramic tile, slate, terrazzo, marble, ¾” OSB, ¾” plywood, vinyl, resilient tile. The material must be solid, flat, structurally sound, and securely attached to the substrate.
Installation
- All door jambs and doors should be cut to allow for the new elevation of the flooring. A jamb saw or hand saw can be used to cut the jambs.
- For wood sub-floors, flooring should be installed at right angles to existing joist system if at all possible, and to the longest dimension of the room. If flooring has to be installed parallel to the joist, and additional layer of ½” sheathing should be applied at a minimum angle of 45 degrees over the existing ¾” sub-floor.
- Snap a chalk line on the sub-floor. Chalk line should represent the width of one piece of flooring, plus an expansion space (thickness of the piece), next to the wall. It might be necessary to rip pieces of the first row as the wall might not be square and straight.
- Remove the pieces and spread adhesive between the chalk line and wall, in accordance with the adhesive manufacturers’ recommended trowel size and instructions. An approved adhesive must be used.
- Set pieces of flooring into the adhesive with the tongue side toward the wall and the edge of the board on the control line. This will allow for an expansion space against the starting wall. The first piece should be placed to allow for an expansion space on the end wall as well. Move down the row placing pieces in the adhesive and firmly engaging the tongue and groove on the ends. Shims should be placed in between the starting wall and flooring as well as the end walls. This will allow for pushing pieces into place without moving others out of position.
- Continue spreading adhesive and placing rows into place. The cut from the far end can be used to start the next row. Use a tapping block or puller to make sure the pieces are fully engaged. Do not hit the edges with a hammer or mallet as the finish may be damaged. Do not spread more adhesive than can be reasonably worked during the open time specified by the manufacturer.
- Continue this process down the second row and for each new row. Allow for at least a 6” variance between end joints on adjacent rows to improve the appearance of the finished floor.
- Leave an expansion space around all vertical obstructions including pipes and columns. Measure the position and size of the obstruction on the flooring and cut. Leave an expansion space to allow the flooring to expand or contract during seasonal changes. Saw through the hole at a 45 degree angle to allow re-gluing the cut-off piece.
- The width of the final row can be found by turning a piece of flooring (tongue side to the wall) as a marking guide. Place the pieces to be installed on top of the second to last row and mark using the piece against the wall. After cutting, apply glue to the tongue and install with a pinch bar. Insert shims and leave them secure until the glue has properly dried.
- Allow 24 to 48 hours for the glue to cure and remove the shims.
- Moldings should be used to cover the expansion spaces. Nail moldings into the wall and not onto the floor.